Sorry if this is posted elsewhere, I did search and check the sidebar but didn't find anything. I want to start painting miniatures - haven't done it in a long time (15 years) so I'm starting over supply-wise. I've decided (for various reasons) to go with Vallejo paints. Right now I'm trying to decide between Game Color and Model Color.

• Vallejo Model Air Paints
• Vallejo Model Air Paint Chart

Items 1 - 9 of 200 - Vallejo Model Air Acrylics. Vallejo Model Color click here. Vallejo Model Air click here. Vallejo Game Colour click here. Vallejo Game Air click here. Vallejo Panzer Aces click here. Vallejo Game Ink click here. Vallejo Premium Color click here. Vallejo Weathering Efffects click here. Refine your search. Online shopping for over 100 vallejo hobby and model paint sets. And color chart from Vallejo. Collection of 16 color sets of Model Air for painting models. Results 1 - 20 of 159 - Vallejo #VLJ71177. Collection of 8 color sets of Model Air for painting models and miniatures. Each one of these sets has a selection of special colors for painting vehicles, figures, etc. Contains 8 bottles of 17 ml. (with eyedropper) and color chart from Vallejo Paints. Location: Hobby and Model Paint.

I've read in a few places that Model Color lays down better but is perhaps less durable (but that issue is alleviated with a varnish). What I'm more interested in is the color choices. Primarily, how accurate is this?

Navigon select keygen software android. I'm actually not concerned about matching GW colors, but I don't want to buy both Pale Flesh and Light Flesh if they really are the same color. For the Vallejo colors listed here, how accurate is this chart, and if you had to choose one vs the other which would you choose and why? Is there a reason to have both? I'm especially interested in the various flesh tones: Dead Flesh vs Deck Tan, Dwarf Flesh vs Dark Rose, Bronze Flesh vs Dark Flesh, Filthy Brown vs Medium Flesh, etc.

These will be used on gaming minis - think games like Blood Rage, Zombicide, Kingdom Death, Reaper Bones, Specter Ops, Wrath of Kings, etc. I'll probably end up going Game Color for the less neutral colors (reds, yellows, blues, etc) as I hear they are more vibrant but I don't mind having some Game Color and some Model Color. I've seen lots of article/videos where people compare Vallejo to other brands, but not much in comparison between the different Vallejo lines, especially with colors that are 'equivalent'. If anyone has any thoughts or resources I'd appreciate it. The is the one I've always used and it's pretty damn good.

I'm no where near as critical of Vallejo Game Colour (VGC) as was - they have their flaws which largely boil down to 'some need to be stirred rather than just shaken', but are great other than that. I'd recommend Vallejo Model Air (VMA) and Vallejo Game Air (VGA) over the non-air ranges even if you don't use an airbrush. They're great to work with and colour match the non-air versions, with the main downside being they're not as good to drybrush with if you do that much.

They're also much more forgiving if you're not experienced with thinning your paints (with your 15 year break) as they come pre-thinned for airbrush use and can usually be used straight form the bottle with good results, although you'll often want to thin them a little still. The durability you mention is a non issue - the only durability 'problem' with Vallejo is their airbrush primers which need to sit for 24 hours before painting over them, and even then they don't have the 'bite' of rattle can primers - but it's perfectly fine if you paint over them and then varnish, just not to play with them only primed as it will eventually start chipping off with use. Which range you choose does largely boil down to what colours you need. The Game ranges are vibrant sci-fi and fantasy colours, the Model colours are more muted/realistic colours. There are some standout colours that work really well or look really good though, such as Game Colour/Air Charred Brown for a rich brown or VMA Hull Red to shade your reds.

VMA metallics are generally really well regarded, especially the silvers, as being the best that aren't alcohol based like the Vallejo Liquid Gold range which are harder to work with but do provide a beautiful metallic. If you're trying to buy paint on a budget, I'd pick out the paints you want based on painting tutorials for the schemes you want - Vallejo is probably even more common online than GW tutorials for most games I think, but the colour match chart should help there if not. If you want to go 'all in' - which if you really like the hobby I'd recommend, pick up one or more sets of paint (and I'd highly recommend an airbrush setup for $150). There are a number of VGC, VMC, VMA and VGA sets to choose from iirc so if you like that idea I'll happily look through and recommend some.

If you want advice on 'essential' paints to cherry pick I can work up a list of that too from multiple Vallejo ranges as I have VGC, VMC, VGA, VMA and Liquid Gold (and GW, Army Painter, P3 and some others too). For example I'd recommend Army painter and secret weapon washes over Vallejo, a couple GW basecoats such as red and yellow over Vallejo opaques and so on. If you're open to being sold on airbrushing - they really make painting much more fun in a number of ways, and speed up a lot of boring tasks like base coating and highlighting, I can dig up an old post on that too. Sorry for getting 2 big posts (so far) to read through; p edit: from a while ago, it's increased since then but this gives a rough idea. 4 ranges of washes and VGA has been added to it since then along with extra colours here and there. The range on the left is Minitaire, an airbrush line from Badger.

They're good for the price per volume and range of colours but definitely on the glossy side so I still prefer to use Vallejo Airs where possible, but they have their uses. Then there's Vallejo skin tones, Vallejo Opaques, Vallejo Game/Model Colours, Vallejo Airs, washes/fluorescents/inks, and odds and ends. Edit 2: If you want some painting tutorial resources I can dig some up. Girl Painting on youtube is great for brush work, Buy Painted is great for airbrush work, and Awesome Paint Job / other WGC is great for both, off the to p of my head. There are written guides but youtube is where it's at for painting tutorials. And the DakkaDakka Painting and Modeling forum is really helpful for advice and constructive criticism, though I haven't been there for a while.

Thanks for the response. I looked in to some of the bigger sets but it looks like it's cheaper to just buy them all individually. For example MM has the Vallejo Model Color Range Box Set for $220. It has 67 paints, but buying them individually ($2.45) is $164. IT does include some brushes, varnishes, and medium, but I think I can pick up those for less than the $60 difference. I'm probably going to stick with plain old brush for now but might look in to airbrush in the future.

My plan for now was probably to buy all (or at least most) of the model color paints on one of these conversion charts. I figured if they are listed there they are used somewhat often. I have a ton of things I could paint. Way too much, in fact.

Vallejo Model Air Paints

So I imagine I can put all these paints to good use (assuming I get around to actually doing it). Do you feel like there really isn't a noticeable difference in color between a VMC and VGC paint on the same line of the Dakka conversion chart? I looked in to some of the bigger sets but it looks like it's cheaper to just buy them all individually. I just had a look on Wayland and yeah it looks like there aren't as many sets as I remember, or at least they're not all stocked everywhere. All I saw was the big one you mention and which costs £12.79 but 8 paints individually are £16.

So there's some savings but not really worth it compared to for example the for $150 or so which is solid savings though not a set to buy if you don't have an airbrush probably. I have a ton of things I could paint. Way too much, in fact. So I imagine I can put all these paints to good use Having a lot of paints in front of you really helps creativity too I find, really frustrating needing a colour and it not being there hehe.

Do you feel like there really isn't a noticeable difference in color between a VMC and VGC paint on the same line of the Dakka conversion chart? It probably varies for each paint, but unless you're trying to colour match an existing scheme it shouldn't be enough of a difference to be noticeable, especially after shading and highlighting. My plan for now was probably to buy all (or at least most) of the model color paints on one of these conversion charts. I figured if they are listed there they are used somewhat often.

Probably the way to go, but you don't really need say. 7 blues, so when selecting keep that in mind and aim for 1 base colour, 1 darker shade and 1 lighter highlight to start with. Some colours may be transparent, metallic or have other non-standard properties though and it can be hard to tell sometimes but for the most part that shouldn't be a problem. Also pick up some army painter strong, soft, and dark tone. They're some of the best/easiest washes and are jokingly called 'liquid skill'. You'll be looking at a cheap tanked compressor and a cheap chinese airbrush I imagine then.

There is a big difference between the cheapies and the Badger/Iwata ones but they're fine for basecoating and even basic highlighting. Also if you stick with airbrushing and your first one survives (many first ones don't! This is normal, best to learn with a cheapie for this reason) you'll have a good brush to use for varnishing your minis without risking your more expensive airbrush.

Depending on your region and ability to import or well priced local products, these are roughly what you're looking for but likely not these specific listings:.: Very common model for hobby airbrushing, I've never heard a complaint about them. Note the tank, you can prolly get a diff model but youw ant a tank (don't need, but do want). Make sure it has the hose (normally comes with compressor) and right connections for your airbrush, or get an adapter to make it work.: Dual action means you can control the amount of air and the amount of paint separately. Gravity fed means the cup is on top, as opposed to suction which is underneath usually. Suction can be good but this is best general purpose. When getting an airbrush, larger needles (ie. 0.5mm) are better for basecoating as they let more paint through.

Smaller needles (0.2mm) are better for detailing as they let less paint through. You can basecoat fine with 0.2mm though, just a little slower maybe. Smaller also means you need to make sure the paint is thinned sufficiently or the airbrush will clog faster.: Important but not essential. You can be stingy and spray the left over paint and cleaning fluid into a box filled with paper towel but this is better.

Windex to clean your airbrush after each colour is cheap and effective. There are other options, and windex can be bad if you let your airbrush soak in it, but to just spray through after colours it's great. And finish your session with a spray through of water after your windex sprays to be safe. These 4 should get you started airbrushing. Once you get into it you can look at more things like quick release, better airbrushes like badger my badger krome and sotar 20/20 or whatever that Iwata is my brother gave me; p You'll also want to look into paints that come into dropper bottles if you don't already have them, as tubs are orrible to use for airbrushing. Airbrush paints such as Vallejo Model Air are really good too. For basecoating and priming actually, look into the 200ml bottles of primer from vallejo, excellent value and good quality - but you can't play with the models primed, it's not as durable as rattle can ones.

Copying an airbrush reply of mine from (worth checking some other comments there too) that you might find useful regarding airbrushing. Seconding a lot of this. Tank for your compressor and gravity feed on your brush are essential. I differ on getting a good airbrush to begin with though for a couple reasons.

Most people damage their first airbrush pretty quickly which can be done in a number of ways - letting paint dry in it, bending the needle, losing parts when opening it to clean it, opening it to clean it more often than necessary and so on. If your first cheapie brush does survive then you can use it for dirty work such as varnishing to keep your nice airbrush safe, or use both at the same time with different colours, or even just for faster base coating as it'll likely be a larger needle size than your good airbrush. A cheapie is basically free, mine was less than $10 iirc.

After you practice with that, then get a nice airbrush like Sloths Badger Patriot or my Badger Krome (or my brothers FILTHY Iwata somethingsomething (lols)). Do a lot of research. Watch videos on airbrush care and so on. Here's some by The Wargamers Consortium to get you started:. From Awesomepaintjob an going over the pros and cons of a lot of different models.

All of which the bastard has hahaha. There are many great wargame painting channels, these are from the Wargames Consortium but if you want to watch tutorials on specific models is the best imo but is great too. I don't think it'd be out of line to recommend DakkaDakka for its painting and modeling and tutorials subforums.

Vallejo Model Air Paint Chart

They're very active and have a lot of information and people to answer questions. My first step is always to search there if I need to know something.

Game color is a terrible line of paints and I think most people would tell you the same. There are some great colors in the line, but most of them are horrible. The main issue with Game Color is that they are incredibly inconsistent, not only in how they look dried, but in terms of the coverage of the paint, the actual consistency of each individual liquid, it's absurd really. Most of the paints are a semi-gloss when they dry, some are gloss, some are matte. The yellow paints, are horrible, the only good yellow from the line that I know of is Gold Yellow, it's great for NMM gold, but the rest of the yellows? I threw mine in a box and stopped using them, that's how bad they are, they cover like torn tissue paper. The oranges are awful also.

The reds are decent, gory red is a nice dark red, bloody red is basically orange though. The greens are good and bad, jade green, scurvy green, goblin green, sick green, are great, so is turqoise, but their dark green is basically just a bottle of matte medium, it takes me a dozen coats to cover well with dark green and because of the thick gummy consistency of that particular paint, it doesn't thin down very well. The browns are pretty good for the most part, again they're good for gold NMM work or leather etc. Flesh tones are okay, I would say Scale75 has the best flesh colors from what I've used, either that or Vallejo Panzer Aces flesh tones.

Game Color flesh tones are fine but nothing special IMO, they're a little gummy and weird to work with though. The differences basically between the Vallejo lines, basically it boils down to consistency, Model Color is for the most part a matte paint unless the bottle says it's gloss, MC is also pretty consistent in how they feel, they come out of the bottle thick but thin down really well.

Game Color supposedly uses a different type of pigment I believe? But either way, it is a hugely inconsistent paint line in terms of how it dries as well as how it handles, a lot of the colors are very thick but very transparent and thinning them down to a nice flowing consistency makes them basically useless because of how poorly they cover, others are fine like the browns and reds. Panzer Aces are all great, Model Air is a fantastic paint line also, they have really good metallics except for VMA gold IMO.

I have moon yellow and lemon yellow both if you'd like a comparison picture or something.